Stranger Press

Blog

  • Finding galaxies from the suburbs

    Shielding your view

    Suburban backyards present a major challenge with stray porch lights, commercial signs, and high-pressure sodium street lamps. To find a distant galaxy from your patio, you do not need pristine wilderness, but you must actively block direct light from entering your eyes. Setting up your telescope in the shadow of a garage, a backyard fence, or a dense cedar tree makes a measurable difference in what you can resolve. Spending fifteen minutes in total darkness allows your pupils to dilate fully, which is essential for detecting low-contrast details in the night sky. While learning constellations is a useful first step for general orientation, hunting down galaxies requires deliberate preparation and patience.

    [sdm_callout type=”tip”]Last checked by the editors in 2020.[/sdm_callout]

    Selecting bright targets

    For observers in suburban neighborhoods, the Andromeda Galaxy and the Bode’s Galaxy pair in Ursa Major are the most reliable subjects. Andromeda is massive enough to show its bright central core even through moderate suburban haze. “The core looks like a fuzzy star,” says a local observer, “but patience reveals the faint oval disk.” During the colder months, look away from the winter hexagon and point toward Ursa Major to find the companion galaxies M81 and M82. These objects are bright enough to withstand the ambient glow of suburban streets, provided the atmosphere is dry and stable. Finding these targets provides a solid baseline for what a galaxy actually looks like through a small telescope under average skies.

    Refining your aim

    Tracking down these distant star systems — which are millions of trillions of miles away — requires precise alignment of your equipment. Adjust the finder scope on a bright streetlamp or a distant chimney during the twilight hours before the stars emerge. Once night falls, use your lowest magnification eyepiece to sweep the target area slowly. Do not be discouraged if your initial sweeps reveal nothing but empty blackness; the transition from empty space to a faint, ghostly smudge is incredibly subtle. You might get distracted by sudden satellite passes slicing through your field of view… but staying focused on the target area will eventually reward you with a glimpse of ancient, faint starlight.

    The value of patience

    Observing faint fuzzies from a driveway requires a shift in expectations. Unlike bright planets, galaxies do not jump out at you immediately. It often takes several minutes of continuous looking through the eyepiece for the faint, extended structures of a galaxy to register in your brain. Your eyes need time to integrate the tiny amount of light reaching them. Once you successfully glimpse the soft glow of a galaxy, you will find that even a moderately bright suburban yard can become a window to the deep universe.

  • Clipless pedals versus flats

    Choosing your platform

    Selecting the right pedal system is a fundamental decision for any cyclist, directly affecting how you transfer power to the road. Flat pedals, often called platforms, are straightforward and accept any normal shoe, making them incredibly convenient for short utility trips. They are particularly popular on commuter bikes where you might have a rear rack loaded with groceries. Clipless pedals, despite the confusing name, actually clip into cleats mounted on the bottom of specialized cycling shoes. This secure connection ensures your feet never slip off, even during sudden accelerations or heavy rain.

    Transitioning to a clipless setup can feel intimidating at first. One experienced mechanic noted, “getting used to the release motion takes about three afternoons of practice.” You must train your brain to twist your heel outward to release your foot before you come to a complete stop. It is a simple habit to form, but until it becomes second nature, minor tip-overs at intersections are quite common.

    Maintenance and durability

    Both pedal styles require a small amount of preventative care to keep their internal bearings spinning without friction. Flat pedals often feature threaded metal traction pins that grip your shoe soles; these pins can loosen and fall out over time, so checking them occasionally with an Allen wrench is wise. Clipless pedals rely on spring-loaded retention gates that need a drop of light lubricant every few months. Keeping these mechanisms free of grit ensures you can exit the pedals easily.

    When you are performing routine drivetrain care like degreasing the cassette or wiping down the chain, take a moment to spin each pedal by hand. If you feel a rough, dry grinding sensation, the internal spindle likely needs a rebuild with fresh grease. Ignoring dry bearings will eventually ruin the pedal axle … leading to a loose, wobbly interface that cannot be repaired.

    Practical riding differences

    On the road, the two designs offer completely different experiences. Flat pedals give you the freedom to adjust your foot placement continuously to avoid hot spots on long rides. They also let you step off the bike instantly without thinking, which is convenient when you stop to check your bike tire pressure or consult a map. Conversely, clipless pedals keep your feet in a consistent, biomechanically optimal position, which can help prevent knee strain on high-mileage excursions.

    Whichever system you choose, correct installation is critical to prevent damage to your equipment. Ensure that your routing is clean and no loose cable housing can touch the spinning pedals. Always apply a generous coat of waterproof grease to the pedal threads before installing them. Remember that the left pedal is left-hand threaded — tightening counter-clockwise — which prevents it from unscrewing itself while you ride.

  • Enriched doughs: brioche and challah

    The nature of enrichment

    Enriched doughs sit in a different category from lean breads. While a standard country loaf relies on just flour, water, salt, and wild yeast, brioche and challah introduce fats, eggs, and sugar into the mix. These additions alter the structure of the crumb, making it tender, soft, and cake-like. When you work with these ingredients, you are modifying how the liquids interact with the starches. The fats coat the starches, slowing down water absorption and resulting in a much softer final texture — one that stays fresh longer than a lean loaf.

    For those used to a rustic rye sourdough or a standard white loaf, the physical behaviour of enriched dough can be surprising. It is often incredibly soft and prone to tearing if handled too roughly. When preparing a wild yeast version of brioche, your levain build must be active and balanced to carry the heavy load of butter and eggs. Unlike lean doughs, which can tolerate some neglect, enriched doughs require careful temperature monitoring to prevent the fat from melting out during the mixing stage.

    Mastering the butter addition

    True brioche is famous for its high butter content, often exceeding 50 percent of the flour weight. Incorporating this much fat requires patience and a systematic approach. You cannot simply dump all the butter in at the start, as this coats the flour particles and prevents the liquid from hydrating them properly. Instead, you must mix the flour, eggs, sugar, and yeast first, allowing the mixture to form a cohesive, elastic mass before adding the butter.

    The butter must be softened but still cool to the touch, around 16 degrees Celsius. If it is too warm, it will melt and turn the mixture into a greasy soup; if it is too cold, it will remain in hard lumps. Add it in small chunks, a tablespoon at a time, waiting until each piece is fully incorporated before adding the next. “Patience is your main ingredient here,” as my grandmother used to say when making sweet holiday loaves. By the end of this process, the dough will be shiny, smooth, and incredibly elastic. A metal bench scraper is invaluable at this stage to help lift and move the tacky dough on your work surface without tearing it.

    The art of the braid

    Challah, while also enriched, differs from brioche in its fat source and its structure. It traditionally uses oil rather than butter, and it contains more eggs, giving it a characteristic golden crumb and a slightly chewy texture. The beauty of challah lies in its presentation, usually formed into intricate braids of three, four, or six strands. Achieving a beautiful braid requires rolling out even strands that are slightly tapered at the ends.

    When shaping, do not use too much flour on your workspace, as the strands need a bit of friction to roll out smoothly. If the dough keeps shrinking back, cover it with a damp cloth and let it rest for ten minutes to relax. Braiding should be snug but not tight. If you pull the strands too tightly, the loaf will tear or burst unevenly in the oven as it expands… a disappointing result after so much careful work.

    Getting the bake right

    Baking enriched doughs requires a lower oven temperature than lean breads. Because of the high sugar and fat content, these loaves will brown very quickly. A temperature of 175 degrees Celsius is usually ideal, allowing the interior of the loaf to bake through completely without the exterior burning. Brushing the loaf with a simple egg wash just before it goes into the oven gives it that classic, high-gloss deep chestnut finish.

    Environmental factors also play a huge role in how these rich doughs perform. If you are working in a mountain environment, adjustments for high-altitude baking will be necessary, as the lower atmospheric pressure causes the dough to rise much faster, potentially weakening the structure before the bake. Keeping a close eye on the volume expansion, rather than just relying on the clock, ensures success.

  • Why a torque wrench matters

    The precision of modern parts

    A modern bicycle is a collection of highly engineered components that rely on precise friction to stay in place. In the past, steel frames and heavy components allowed for a subjective approach to assembly. You simply tightened a bolt until it felt snug, and then perhaps gave it another quarter turn. With the introduction of lightweight alloys and thin-walled carbon fiber, this intuitive approach — once acceptable on older rigs — became a liability. Stripping the threads on an expensive stem or cracking a handlebar is surprisingly easy when relying on muscle memory alone. A high-quality torque wrench removes the guesswork by measuring the exact rotational force applied to a fastener, typically in Newton meters.

    Using a click-style or beam-style tool ensures that clamping forces are distributed evenly across mating surfaces. For example, when securing a faceplate, uneven torque can create stress risers that lead to sudden component failure during a ride. “Close enough is no longer safe,” warns a veteran frame builder I spoke with last season. If you are accustomed to adjusting components by feel, using a calibrated tool for the first time can be an eye-opening experience. Often, the specified torque is much lower than you would expect, especially on M5 bolts.

    Carbon fiber and low torque

    Carbon fiber has an excellent strength-to-weight ratio, but it is highly vulnerable to crushing forces. Unlike metal, which deforms slightly before failing, carbon composites tend to fail catastrophically without warning. A seatpost collar tightened to eight Newton meters instead of the recommended five can quietly crush the underlying seat tube. This type of damage might not be visible immediately, but over weeks of riding, the micro-cracks expand … eventually leading to a sudden snap on a rough road.

    The same caution applies when installing lightweight accessories or adjusting your cockpit. When tightening the bolts that secure your controls, or even working on advanced systems like hydraulic brake bleeding, using a torque wrench prevents the distortion of master cylinders. Over-tightening the clamps on brake levers can crimp the handlebars or pinch the internal pistons. The goal is to find the sweet spot where the component remains secure during normal operation but can still rotate slightly in a crash to absorb impact energy.

    Heavy duty components

    It is a common misconception that torque wrenches are only useful for delicate, lightweight parts. High-torque applications require just as much precision to prevent damage and ensure safety. Threaded components that experience constant, alternating forces can work themselves loose if under-torqued. For example, resolving the vibrations that cause squealing brakes often involves checking the mounting bolts of the calipers to ensure they are torqued exactly to specification.

    Similarly, installing heavy-duty parts like clipless pedals requires significant torque to prevent the threads from stripping under the power of your legs. If these interfaces are too loose, the steel pedal axle will quickly destroy the softer aluminum threads of the crank arm. Conversely, over-tightening can make future removal nearly impossible without damaging the components. Even minor adjustments, such as setting the stem preload before clamping the steering tube, benefit from using a torque wrench to ensure the bearings are loaded perfectly without being crushed.

  • Calibrating a burr grinder at home

    Finding the zero point

    Every motorized burr machine, whether it uses flat or conical steel plates, has a physical starting point where the grinding surfaces actually make contact. Manufacturers often set this point differently at the factory, meaning two identical models sitting side by side might produce different results at the same numerical setting. Finding your specific machine’s true zero — the exact point where the burrs first touch — is the foundation of any successful calibration. To find this point safely, unplug the machine and empty the hopper. Turn the adjustment collar toward the finest setting by hand until you feel physical resistance. If you spin the drive shaft manually, you will eventually hear a faint, metallic scraping noise indicating that the high spots on the metal ridges are rubbing against each other.

    Knowing this baseline allows you to make precise adjustments for various preparation methods without relying on arbitrary numbers printed on the plastic shell. For example, if you are setting up a standardized bowl for a session of coffee cupping at home, you need to be able to return to a reliable, uniform medium-coarse particle size time after time. Without knowing where your plates actually meet, you are simply guessing.

    Testing alignment and touch

    Once you understand where the zero point lies, the next step is assessing alignment. Flat burrs must be perfectly parallel to cut the beans into uniform particles rather than crushing them. A simple way to test this alignment is the dry-wipe marker test. Coat the outer edges of the stationary burr with a dry-erase marker, reassemble the chamber, and turn the adjustment dial until you hear that initial metallic contact. Rotate the shaft by hand a few times, then disassemble the unit to examine the ink. If the marker is wiped clean from only one side, the plates are misaligned. This wobble results in a mix of fine dust and large chunks, ruining uniformity.

    For a quick daily assessment, listen to the motor while the machine runs empty. As you slowly turn the adjustment collar toward the zero point, a sharp, uneven “chirp … chirp” sound reveals that the plates are touching on one side first. A perfectly aligned set of burrs will produce a smooth, continuous hiss as they make contact. One experienced repair technician advised me to “listen to the pitch change” as the plates converge. Achieving this level of precision is critical when grinding for a flash brew iced coffee, where the fast flow of hot water demands a highly uniform grind size to avoid sourness.

    Adjusting the collar or shims

    To fix misalignment, you can use thin shims cut from aluminum foil to lift the lower side of the stationary burr. By placing a small strip of foil under the screws opposite the clean area from your marker test, you can raise the low side by a few microns. This process is iterative, requiring you to wipe, test, shim, and retest until the marker is rubbed off evenly around the entire circumference. Many modern consumer grinders also have an internal calibration ring beneath the outer shroud. Adjusting this ring shifts the entire range of the collar, allowing you to grind much finer or coarser than the factory settings permitted.

    This internal adjustment is useful if your machine cannot grind coarse enough for immersion methods. If your morning brew tastes overly bitter, shifting the calibration ring coarser will help you execute a clean French press technique with fewer suspended particles. Similarly, a slightly coarser grind can temper a heavy dark roast flavor by slowing down the rate of chemical extraction during the brew cycle.

    Keeping your settings consistent

    Calibrating your equipment is not a one-time chore; physical components shift and wear over months of regular use. Vibrations can slowly loosen the internal tension springs or shift the threads on the collar. Additionally, coffee oils deposit a sticky film inside the chamber, which can prevent the burr carriers from seating flat. A thorough cleaning with a stiff brush and a dry cloth — ensuring you remove all packed grounds — should always precede any calibration attempt. Regular maintenance ensures that your physical settings remain accurate and repeatable.

    Over time, steel burrs will also dull. Dull edges tend to crush the coffee rather than slicing it, producing more micro-particles regardless of how well you have calibrated the alignment. Keeping a log of your collar settings relative to your zero point can help you track this wear over years of daily brewing. When you notice that you must constantly adjust the collar to a tighter setting to achieve the same cup quality, it may be time to replace the burrs entirely, restarting the calibration process.

  • Layering for winter trail runs

    When temperatures drop below freezing, start your run feeling slightly cold. Layer a merino wool long-sleeve over a thin synthetic mesh base, then zip on a windproof vest. This combination traps core heat while letting moisture escape through your arms, preventing the damp chill that sets in when you slow down.

  • Preventing blisters on long runs

    For runs over fifteen miles, friction is the enemy. Apply a thin layer of silicone-based anti-chafe stick directly to your toes and the back of your heels before putting on your socks. Pair this with double-layered socks made of merino wool or synthetic fibers; the two layers rub against each other rather than your skin, absorbing the shear forces that cause deep, painful fluid pockets.

  • Developing film in coffee

    Coffee as chemistry

    Coffee can be more than a novelty in a mug: a coffee developer, usually called caffenol, uses compounds in instant coffee alongside vitamin C and an alkali to develop silver based monochrome film. It is not strong brewed coffee poured into a processing vessel. Brewed coffee varies too much, while oils, sugar, and flavorings can leave residue. The method is intended for monochrome emulsions, not color film. Treat it as a measured chemical process with clean water and a timer, rather than as a kitchen trick.

    Results can vary with the film and recipe. Coffee mixtures may tint clear edges or leave marks if particles remain, so stir until the ingredients dissolve and strain the liquid if you can still see specks. A coffee jar beside a blue cloth makes a simple tonal test subject: the color wheel describes their contrasting hues, while the processed monochrome image shows whether those hues separate into distinct tones. A coffee developer does not replace the separate fixing and washing steps.

    Measure each ingredient

    A commonly used one liter starting formula calls for 54 grams of anhydrous sodium carbonate, 16 grams of plain ascorbic acid, and 40 grams of instant coffee. Those amounts are not universal, so check a tested formula for the particular film you plan to use. The sodium carbonate amount applies to the anhydrous powder; washing soda crystals contain water and are not a direct, equal weight substitute. Use plain instant coffee without creamer or added flavor, and weigh each ingredient rather than estimating by spoonful.

    Mix in a clearly labeled glass or plastic measure that will never return to food use. Wear eye protection and gloves when handling the alkali, avoid breathing its dust, and work with fresh water near 20 degrees Celsius. Dissolve the sodium carbonate, then add the ascorbic acid and coffee, stirring well. Make only the amount you need for the session; a fresh batch gives a more repeatable starting point than a solution left standing. Keep every tool out of food use — rinsing does not turn a processing cup back into a drinking cup.

    Hold the process steady

    Once the film is on its reel and enclosed in an opaque vessel, use a timer and keep the temperature steady. A common trial is 15 minutes at 20 degrees Celsius, with ten seconds of gentle inversion each minute, but that is only a starting point. The right time depends on the emulsion, its exposure, and the specific recipe. Follow a tested time for your film where possible, and change only one factor on the next trial. Record any difference in temperature rather than trying to correct it from memory.

    When comparing 35mm versus medium format, the image area alone does not set the chemistry; the emulsion and its exposure matter more. For anyone keeping expired film in the fridge, let its sealed packet warm to room temperature before opening it, which reduces the chance of condensation forming on the film. Age and cold storage cannot tell you how much an old roll’s sensitivity has shifted, so treat its printed rating as uncertain and use a separate trial if you can.

    Finish and assess

    When the timer ends, pour out the coffee mixture, rinse the film with water for about 30 seconds, then use a separate commercial fixer according to its label. Wash the film in several changes of water for 5 to 10 minutes, following the film maker’s directions, and use a wetting agent for the final rinse if you have one. Keep fixer and developer in separate, labeled containers, and follow local guidance for disposing of used solutions. Let the film dry somewhere clean, away from dust.

    Write down the film name, recipe, water temperature, time, and agitation after each try. For the next roll, a handheld light meter can help you make exposure more consistent, so a change in the developed image is easier to trace to the processing. The first mix can look cloudy and smell sharp… that alone does not predict the result. I remind myself, “It smells like coffee, but it is not a drink.” Compare the developed frames in even light, then adjust one part of the process rather than changing the whole recipe.

  • Finding a trail running group

    Local shops as a starting point

    The easiest way to find people to run with is to visit your neighborhood specialty running shop. Most stores host free weekly runs that welcome all skill levels. These casual gatherings are perfect for asking seasoned runners about local networks. You might meet someone who is training for a vertical kilometer race or just someone who enjoys a quiet weekend jog. Staff members usually know the local landscape well and can point you toward informal morning meetups or established clubs. If you are nervous about your fitness, look for groups that specifically advertise a no-drop policy, meaning the leader stays with the slowest runner.

    Online forums and social media groups are another excellent resource. Many regional groups maintain active message boards where members post their weekend plans and invite others to tag along. When posting, be clear about your preferred distance, pace, and whether you are comfortable with steep terrain. This clarity helps prevent mismatched expectations and ensures a safer, more enjoyable run for everyone involved.

    Finding the right pace

    When joining a group, it is helpful to ask about their typical speed and distance beforehand. Some groups focus strictly on technical terrain, while others stick to flat gravel paths. It is also a good opportunity to talk about gear, such as the benefits of rotating running shoes to keep your feet comfortable. A runner named Dave once told me, “We never leave anyone behind on these woods loops.” That kind of reassurance is invaluable when you are testing your limits. You can use these outings to learn small practical tips, like how other runners carry their energy gels on the trail without bouncing. Observing how others pack their gear can teach you more than reading forums online.

    Finding people who share your specific schedule is just as important as matching their speed. Some groups meet at dawn on Tuesdays, while others prefer Thursday evenings. Joining a few different local runs will help you determine which group fits your personal lifestyle and weekly routine best.

    Looking for community events

    Some clubs organise seasonal outings — often run by volunteers — that go beyond the usual weekend morning routines. These might include a harvest moon run where everyone meets at dusk to watch the sunset over the ridge… a truly memorable way to experience the woods. These social runs often end with a tailgate gathering or a shared meal, helping to cement friendships made during the tough climbs. Over time, these weekly meetings turn casual acquaintances into reliable partners for your long mountain adventures. Sharing a Thermos of hot coffee in a gravel parking lot after a chilly run is where the real community is built.

  • Making Turkish coffee in a cezve

    Choosing your equipment and coffee

    Brewing with a cezve — the traditional wide-bottomed, narrow-necked brass or copper pot — is one of the oldest methods of coffee preparation, requiring no paper filters or complex machinery. The pot itself is designed to build a thick, insulating layer of foam that traps the delicate aromas inside. To achieve this, you need a coffee that is ground to an exceptionally fine, powder-like consistency, much finer than what you would use for a drip pot. When you rub the ground coffee between your thumb and forefinger, it should feel like soft flour with no distinct grit. Some manual mills can achieve this, though many electric home mills struggle to grind fine enough without overheating the motor.

    Because the coffee grounds remain in the finished cup, the quality of your beans is highly noticeable. You want to choose a roast that has rested for at least a few days but is still within its optimal bean freshness window so that the natural oils can produce a rich, stable foam. If the beans are too old, the foam will dissipate within seconds of pouring, leaving you with a flat and bitter drink. Using fresh water that tastes good on its own is equally critical, as any mineral off-flavors will be magnified during the slow heating process on the stovetop.

    Measuring and mixing the brew

    Before you place the cezve on the stove, you must combine the water and the finely ground coffee in the pot while they are still cold. A common starting point is using about one rounded teaspoon of coffee powder for every three ounces of cold water. If you prefer to add sugar or spices like cardamom, you must stir them in now, as traditional Turkish coffee is never stirred after it begins to heat. The old saying, “the water must be cold from the start,” reminds us that a slow temperature rise is essential for proper flavor development. This slow, deliberate pacing is the kind of detail that is highly useful to record in your daily brew log notes for future consistency.

    Place the cezve over a very low flame. If the heat is too high, the water will boil before the coffee has a chance to properly infuse, resulting in a thin, watery beverage with a sour taste. The total heating time should ideally take between three and four minutes. During this time, you should watch the surface of the liquid closely… a dark, ring-like crema will slowly begin to form around the edges of the pot and move toward the center.

    Controlling the foam rise

    As the mixture nears a boil, the dark ring of foam will suddenly begin to rise rapidly toward the rim of the narrow neck. It is crucial not to let the liquid break into a rolling boil, as this will destroy the delicate foam structure and scorch the ground coffee. Instead, lift the cezve off the flame just as the foam reaches the top. Because the grounds are suspended in the liquid rather than filtered out, we do not measure extraction yield in the same manner as other filter methods, but the temperature control still dictates how sweet or bitter the cup will taste.

    Some traditional methods suggest spooning a small amount of the thick foam directly into each serving cup before returning the cezve to the fire for a second rise. Letting the foam rise two or even three times can deepen the body of the coffee, though you must be extremely swift with your movements to prevent the grounds from overcooking. For your first few attempts, a single controlled rise is usually sufficient to produce a beautifully balanced cup.

    Pouring and enjoying the cup

    Pour the coffee slowly down the side of the small cups to keep the foam intact on top. Unlike modern milk-based drinks where the focus is on steaming milk to a silky consistency, Turkish coffee relies entirely on its natural coffee oils and fine particulates to create its luxurious, heavy mouthfeel. Once poured, the cup must sit undisturbed for at least two minutes. This waiting period is essential because it allows the fine, powdery silt to settle completely to the bottom of the cup, leaving a clear, rich liquid above.

    Serve the coffee alongside a small glass of cold water and a sweet confection. Taking a sip of water first cleanses your palate, allowing you to appreciate the full, heavy texture of the brew. Drink the coffee slowly, taking care not to disturb the settled silt at the bottom. Stop drinking when you reach the muddy layer of grounds at the lower third of the cup, leaving the sediment behind.